Virginia City, Nevada was Queen of the Comstock
Mansions, A Mine, Historic Church and C Street Saloons Reveal Past
Aug 24, 2008
Though The Queen of the Comstock was the most important mining center in early-day Nevada, today it’s all about fun. It’s a place where visitors feel like kids again on the last day of school. Sounds of country western and Dixieland jazz waft through the swinging doors of C Street saloons. It’s perfectly acceptable to stroll down the board sidewalks munching a hotdog, licking a slurpee or some sticky pink cotton candy.
Getting Around
The “Step Back in Time” 20-minute trolley tour which takes sightseers around town provides a good way to become oriented ($4, adults). It’s also relatively easy to walk almost anywhere in the little town (population is about 700), even though it was built on the slopes of Mt. Davidson.
The Mansions
The Castle (179 S. D Street; 11 a.m.-4 p.m. daily; $3, adults) was one of the grand old mansions that Comstock silver built -- more than $38,000,000 worth of the precious metal was taken from Virginia City mines in 1876 alone. Built by Empire Mine superintendent Robert N. Graves in 1868, the Castle is remarkably well preserved. Original hand-made Brussels lace curtains hang in the hall windows. The rock crystal chandeliers came from Czechoslovakia; the bathroom fixtures from France, and the fireplaces are of Italian . The Mackay and Savage mansions are open to visitors, too.
Chollar Mine
The Chollar Mine (615 S. F Street), fifth largest producer of gold and silver in the Comstock, is open daily during the warm weather months. On display there are old mining tools, ore cars and a stamp mill that's more than 100 years old. Daily, 11 a.m.– 4 p.m.; $3 , adults)
Train Rides and Other Attractions
The Virginia and Truckee Railroad (depot at F and Washington Streets), which hauled the millions in treasure from Virginia City, Gold Hill and Silver City mines, runs along about three miles of track. It's not a long ride, but exciting for kids and rail fans. The railroad operates seven trips daily from 10:30 a.m.- 4 p.m.;$8 diesel, $9 steam, adults..
Another attraction is St. Mary's of the Mountain church. The stained glass windows are in themselves worth the trip to Virginia City for people who are interested in ecclesiastical architecture. The old Fourth Ward School and Piper's Opera House are other important landmarks.
Strolling C Street
First-time visitors should save plenty of time to stroll along C Street, where sights include glassblowers making fanciful creations -- some of them miniature replicas of Virginia City landmarks. Another “don’t miss” attraction is the desk where Mark Twain worked as a reporter for the Territorial Enterprise.
The number of C Street saloons pales in comparison to the days when Virginia City was the most important mining center in the world (there were 72 of them in 1876). Today, slot machines are an important feature at most of them. Even people who aren't interested in gambling shouldn’t miss seeing the one-armed bandit near the entrance of the Bonanza. It's one of less than 100 wooden machines carved by Cowboy Artist of America Frank Polk. There’s also a valuable collection of Victorian pickle casters displayed on the back bar at the Bucket of Blood Saloon.
The most authentic of the museums on C Street, according to the locals, is "The Way it Was Museum" on the north end of the business district. An interesting video program lasts 16 minutes. Among the exhibits are the mineral collection, the scale model of Virginia City's underground mines and the reproduction of a Comstock blacksmith shop ($2.50, adults).
Getting There
To get to Virginia City, go south on U.S. Hwy. 395 to the well-marked turnoff at State Hwy. 341. The road then winds up Geiger Grade, once the route of the mule teams that hauled silver and supplies. The drive takes about 45 minutes.
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